The journal
What happened, with the numbers in.
Trip reports written by the guide who led the departure, field notes from the log, and the house rules explained at length. Nothing here is written by a marketing department, which is occasionally obvious.
Latest from the log
Field note
Eleven days of weather, in numbers
The July Hornsund departure, logged hour by hour: wind, water temperature, paddling kilometres, and the three days we did not get in the boats at all.
2026
- Trip reportWe turned back at 1,180 metresThe April Lyngen party was ninety vertical metres from the summit at two minutes to one. The turnaround rule is a clock, not a conversation, and this is what it cost and what it bought.3 min
- House ruleThe kit list is not a suggestionWe put everyone's kit on the yard floor before every departure and go through it item by item. Here is what gets pulled, what gets lent, and the two things that have sent people home.3 min
- Field noteWhat a qualifying week actually testsThe Ullstinden Ice Week ends with a written assessment. It is not about knots, and the thing it measures best happens on day four in a hole in a glacier.2 min
- House ruleWhy we will not fly you to the iceEvery route we run has a helicopter version that is shorter, easier and available locally. We do not book any of them, and the reason is not purity — it is that the approach is the acclimatisation.3 min
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